Tahiti and beyond as of 25 Jul 19



16º 51.972s 148º 16.097w

Thu Jul 25 2019

Of course, all this rests on the assumption that my carte de sejour (1 year long stay visa) actually is granted and available while we are in Papeete the next couple of weeks. Isabel is already good to go for now, but no telling what that silly Brexit thing will do to her long stay privileges.

Looks like we’ll arrive Tahiti tonight and be in Marina Taina somewhere between Monday and Wednesday for a (hopefully) short stay. We’ve engaged the services of a very reputable project manager to hopefully ensure the canvas and fiberglass work that needs doing happen in a timely manner. Thank you for that assist, SV Hullabaloo! With any luck we’ll be in and out of Papeete in around 2 weeks, but time will tell. In Mexico it’s always a palaver to get any sort of worker to actually do as promised on schedule; they’re usually not too bad for sticking to agreed-upon budget figures if you can just get them to quote a price in the first place, but it’s really rare to get anything done on time unless an American project manager is running the crew. We did meet exceptional Mexican craftsmen and workers in several marinas, but it takes a while to find out about those people. We’ll end up paying extra for the project manager but hopefully things get done quickly and we can be on our way. Marinas cost money too and we dislike spending too much time in them anyway. That said, Marina Taina apparently has a bar with the local craft beer on tap at 2:1 happy hour prices, so that might influence me to enjoy the experience more. My good craft beer low light is blazing brightly!

If all goes well we’ll escape the marina on time then wander around the protected anchorages of Tahiti or sail all of 10 miles over to Moorea to explore Cook’s Bay and some other points of interest. With (hopefully) new kite gear on board we’ll be able to practice our meager skills on those breezy days, then return to Tahiti for refueling and provisioning before pushing on back towards the Tuamotus. Back towards the Marquesas by October, a few weeks off the boat in the US and UK, then return in December. January 2020 will see us wandering towards the Gambiers for a month or 2 there, then back slowly through the Tuamotus to be in the Societies by early June. It’s all about which direction the wind blows.
We’re figuring we’ll be ripe for visitors after Christmas as we enjoy the Marquesas, sail to the Gambier, then come back through the Tuamotus. Many locations have scheduled local airline service from Tahiti, then we’ll hope to enjoy some visitors in the Societies June and July. The leeward islands of Huahine, Raiatea and Bora Bora all sound lovely and there’s easy airline access back to the only international airport in Tahiti.

Sooooooo, if you’re thinking of coming to visit we’d love to host you. If you want remote, the Marquesas, Gambiers and Tuamotus are your bag. If you want easy then the Societies are the hot ticket. In most cases there’s always the option of staying at a shoreside resort (think thatch roof huts, some built over the turquoise blue water) and snorkeling, day sailing or kiting with us in an adjacent anchorage.

Right now we’re leaning towards moving on towards New Zealand by November of 2020, which will give us a brief glimpse of the Cook Islands, Tonga, and Minerva Reef. Perhaps more, perhaps different destinations. By then we’ll surely want a bit of time off JollyDogs for some dirt travel, and she’ll likely need a bit of maintenance too.

2020 is the year! Have a think! Come see us! We’ll do our best to show you a great time!

More than half way there - 25 Jul 19



16º 49.877s 148º 11.834w

Thu Jul 25 2019

JollyDogs with Isabel and Mark is underway from Anse Amyot, the false pass at the North end of Toau to Point Venus anchorage, Tahiti. Time for a bit of boat maintenance and maybe a cold craft beer!

Current numbers:
S16* 51.2’ W148* 14.6’
SOG 6.3 kts, COG 243 T, wind ESE @ 12.5 kts, seas ESE 0.5 meter, current flowing SSW 0.9 kts, baro 1017.5 mb, cabin 25C @ 75% RH, water 27C, sky sunny with scattered puffies.
Departed with full main and screecher, averaging well over 7 knots until 0100, then reduced sail to full main and jib as seas got a little lumpier and apparent wind approached 15 knots (screecher limit). Cost about 1.5 knots SOG but more comfortable ride and less load on the rig.
Wind forecast from GFS has been fairly accurate, better than ECM. Swell direction, size and period much more favorable than the forecast.
ETA Point Venus anchorage 2200.
All is well on board!

Anse Amyot to Point Venus 24 Jul 19



16º 22.536s 147º 16.290w

Thu Jul 25 2019

Turned out last night wasn’t good for Valentine and Gascon to prepare a dinner for four. That’s all that was left of us in the anchorage after several boats bailed out, so Isabel whipped up a killer chicken curry (Indian style) and the crew of SY greyhound, Dietmar and Marie, joined us for dinner. They’re nice folks, both professors of orthodontics from Hamburg University in West Germany. Braces have come a long way since I was in high school, thank goodness. If not for those evil shiny oral appliances, instead of being called names like “metal mouth” and “lead head” I might have been a great jazz trombonist. Well, probably not, but YOU try playing a trombone with a bunch of sharp metal chewing up the insides of your lips. Didn’t work out for me.

We had a nice snorkel adventure inside the false pass yesterday afternoon, paddling around in about 3’ of water. Beautiful corals and a great variety of tropical fish, and darned if we didn’t even find a couple of camouflage grouper. Big ones, and there I was without my blasted spear gun. Really too bad, as these were some nice size boys – would have looked great on the grill, and that particular type of grouper doesn’t carry ciguatera like the spotted varieties.

I took a break in departure preparations this morning to go ashore and pay Valentine and Gascon for our mooring. After 15 years of charging 500 CFP (about $5 US) they’ve raised the rent to 1000 CFP per night. Well, everybody’s got to make a living, and they are lovely people. Valentine was in the mood to visit, so we sat around and jacked our jaws for a bit. Turns out her father spirited her away to this particular atoll as a very small child to hide her from her grandfather, who had kidnapped her at least twice. Her mom stole her back each time. She’s lived on the atoll pretty much her entire life. Polynesian family dynamics are even weirder than US or UK families.

Gascon helped me husk some coconuts that we had collected at the South anchorage of the atoll some days back, so now we’ve got enough to last for a while. A couple were cracked and he pronounced they were only fit for feeding the pigs, so I was happy to donate them to the cause. There’s a good chance we’ll help eat one of those pigs or their offspring in a few months, so why not? What’s really nuts to know is that after Valentine and Gascon put on one of their big feeds for the visiting cruisers, all the leftover fish and lobster get fed to the pigs. How about that? Their pigs eat lobster, fish, coconut, and various fruit. I’m thinking we need to buy some bacon from these guys!

Valentine told me that when her dad brought her to the atoll, he had a little 14’ wooden skiff with a 1 horsepower outboard. The trip from her family home where grandpa kept kidnapping her to Anse Amyot was around 35 miles, and the atolls are low enough so that it might be difficult to see the next one on the horizon when out of sight of the one you’ve just departed. Her dad brought a pig along as navigator, and according to Valentine they still practice the same habit, as pigs can smell land and help the humans navigate. Wow.

The weather forecast was fairly light for the next 24 hours, 10 – 15 knots on the port aft quarter and fairly flat seas, so we elected to bolt for Tahiti and enjoy a mellow sail. The seas have been pretty flat, and the wind has been pretty steady between 10 and 15 knots back around 130 to 140 degrees on the port quarter. We put up the main and unfurled the screecher and have been blasting along at up to 10 knots at times, with the apparent wind around 100 degrees. Currently we seem to be averaging around 7.8 knots speed over ground, and if that keeps up we’ll drop the anchor shortly after dark tomorrow. It’s a beautiful clear starry night, and a couple minor shooting stars have already made an appearance.

We’re about 140 nautical miles from the destination and the weather couldn’t be more spectacular. The big city of Papeete with all the people and noise and jet skis will be a bit of a shock after the remote atolls, but hopefully we’ll get our projects and repairs knocked out and then retire to a quiet anchorage over at the neighboring island of Moorea. There’s kite boarding gear to be bought and played with!