16º 27.046s 145º 22.047w
Thu Jul 04 2019
Well
happy 4th of July! Here in French Polynesia it’s just another day in paradise,
although today in paradise it’s raining off and on, blowing up to 30+ knots and
mostly gray with an occasional “Mr. Sunshine” cameo appearance. All told it’s
just another great day to be alive! Apparently Isabel and I are a bit unusual
in that we’re willing to set an alarm for 0520, get up and guzzle coffee and be
ready for an 0700 – 0900 kite boarding lesson. We’ve done it the last few days
and will again tomorrow before the wind dies off, and that will be 7 lessons
we’ve taken together. It’s all going pretty well; I can tool along downwind until
I get tired or bored or occasionally until I get careless and launch into a
great big face plant. That happened twice today – the first time I lost both my
board and my sunnies; the second only the board as my sunnies now live on the
sea floor. Looks like this sport is going to either eat a bunch of cheap
sunglasses, or we’re going to invest in some really buoyant straps for our
specs.
Isabel
is getting up and scooting along pretty well now, and I’m pretty sure she’s
reached the point of no return. Kite surfing is something we’ll be able to
enjoy together for many years. Initially one of us chasing the other with the
dinghy, but in a few months if we work at it we should be out there funning
around together. The gear is small enough to find a home for on the boat so
that block is checked. It requires a pretty good level of physical fitness to
enjoy kiting and it’s great low impact exercise so our knees, ankles, hips etc.
should allow us to do this until we’re really creaky. Besides all that, it’s
just really fun and a great celebration of being alive. So as Isabel’s dad Paul
would say, “why not”?
Today
I accidentally launched myself a few feet into the air and even though water is
softer than rocks, the landing (another face plant like event) really rang my
skull and aggravated an old skydiving injury. Years ago I did a lot of freefall
photography using a heavy 35mm film camera (anyone remember those?) mounted on
my hockey helmet. I had just purchased a new, very sporty parachute and it had
a tendency towards the occasional “hard opening”. Packing technique and good
body position can help with that problem, as well as getting the canopy broken
in, and once I thought I had it all sorted out I went back to shooting
pictures. It wasn’t long before one of those firecracker openings occurred and
as I was looking up at the parachute observing the opening, I felt and heard a
crunching sound in my neck and literally saw stars. Turns out that left me with
a bit of a bone spur on one neck vertebrae, and when jarred just right it
creates temporary numbness down my right arm.
Couple
that with the remains of my ankles and heels which were employed as landing
gear during a momentary lapse in judgement during a glider race back in 1993,
and my orthopedic body museum doesn’t lend itself well to certain physical
activities. Adrien and Aline joined us aboard for dinner last night, and he
noted that the lack of flexibility in my ankles really wouldn’t create too many
kite boarding challenges, unlike snow skiing and some other former pastimes.
Isabel
doesn’t sport my various handicaps, but both of us are realizing that we need
to do heaps of squats and other exercises to improve our level of fitness so
that we can enjoy kiting for hours on end. With the big chop generated by the winds
we’ve been having it’s quite a workout for the calves and thighs, and the abs
are getting their share of abuse. It’s all good – we’ll grade ourselves on
improvement and apply an age handicap based curve to the final scores.
It’s
been blowing for several days now and our anchor is right where we set it. On
the sea floor. Actually, we’ve seen up to about 40 knots, and our lovely Sarca
Excel #5, a new generation anchor about mid-size for the weight of our
boat, has dug in and is holding well. I dive it each day to verify nothing
untoward is going on, and it couldn’t be performing any better. The float
system recommended by experienced cruisers who have learned to cope with the
bommies in these atolls is working extremely well. Not only do they keep the
chain from wrapping bommies, but they also offer an excellent damping effect
when the wind gusts hard and we begin to pull tight on the ground tackle. As
the boat moves to tighten the chain, it straightens to the point that the floats
are pulled beneath the ocean surface. The buoyancy of the floats really softens
the snatch loads that would otherwise be applied to the anchor. I think this
effect more than offsets the loss of catenary effect gained by a long length of
chain lying on the sea floor.
There
are almost 50 sailboats tucked in down here, about 25% of them catamarans.
There’s also a 154’ superyacht with its sport fishing boat tender tied
alongside just about 500 meters from us. Nobody gets a pass on bad weather, and
we’ve been wondering how the crew are keeping the charter guests entertained,
likely with great food, booze, sport fishing, movies, and who knows what else?
It’s
a good day for a couple of boat projects. One electrical one today, as well as
perhaps building a few dyneema soft shackles or other good fun; my idea of arts
and crafts. One of these days it’ll be time to bust out my really groovy red
plastic ukulele imported from Japan. Gotta scratch that musical itch! Wonder if
any of the American boats will bust out fireworks tonight?
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