Hanavave Bay offers stunning scenery, but it also offers some nutty wind conditions. The canyon that opens up to the bay goes quite a way to the East as the terrain slowly climbs into some rather large mountains. Predominant winds are out of the East, so anchoring on the West side of the island obviously offers protection from the big winds and swell. BUT, terrain can do icky things with wind, and Hanavave Bay is one of those places that the intrepid cruiser gets to enjoy those interesting terrain effects. For days we enjoyed the spectacular views of goats scampering about on giant rock pinnacles and various shades of green foliage, but we also got to enjoy some rather amazing and sustained wind gusts that whistled down the canyon and out over the water. The SUPs remained in the rack as we were certain we might blow out to sea. Fortunately, with only a couple hundred meters of fetch the water remained fairly flat even during the biggest of blows.
Fatu Hiva is an island whose inhabitants like to trade their fruit for "stuff". They're quite fond of bits of rope, crayons for the little ones, hats of all descriptions, perfume and cosmetics, anything that is difficult to obtain locally. Not a lot of folks on that island, so not a lot of stuff to buy, but the supply ship does come occasionally. We visited back in October with Shawnee and met several lovely folks who loaded us up with plantains, pamplemouse, limes, coconuts, bananas, and mangos. We had something to trade with most folks, including a ragged slightly mildewed old Tilley hat that became the talk of the town, but one fellow named Patrice loaded us up with plantains for nothing in return. I think he had a thing for Isabel and Shawnee.
Some things seem only available for purchase, such as a liter of honey or local crafts such as "tapas", which are pieces of artwork - images created on sheets of bark from a specific tree. I purchased a beautiful handmade ukulele from a local craftsman named Edwin. If I never learn to play it at least it'll look great hanging on the wall.
This visit we came with our old main halyard which I had cut into two sections. Patrice got a length just for being so nice to us last time. Edwin got the other section and in return we got a smokin' deal on a boat ride to the neighboring village of Omoa so we could hike the 10-mile road back to Hanavavae. A flight attendant on our recent British Airways flight from London to San Francisco had given me all the extra coloring books in their stores after the onboard children were entertained, and these we delivered to various folks with small children. That was a big hit. We took Marie a 50-foot section of garden hose and a collapsible crate which she found absolutely mystifying; in return she loaded us up with coconuts and papaya and pamplemouse. Marie got a little odd this time, acting like our most recent trade gifts were to compensate for a previous exchange, and "what were we going to bring next time" to cover the latest gift of fruit. I think she was having a bit of a go at us, and we decided not to return as we felt we were even steven.
The evening before our departure Patrice's daughter saw us wandering about and told us she would prepare a box of fruit for us to collect the following morning, no trade required. I reckon she and Patrice felt we were way ahead on the wheelin' and dealin' and wanted to end up square. We dinghied in before our morning departure and collected a ridiculous amount of bananas and other bits, and most delightfully 16 ripe plantains which are just gorgeous sliced and fried up in butter. The variety of plantains they grow turn a lovely orange color when they ripen. Oink. Patrice was feeling so excited about his new piece of rope that he even dug a couple of baguettes out of the freezer for us to enjoy with our lunch.
Altogether a really interesting cultural exchange with a bunch of nice folks living in a spectacular location.
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