Well arriving Fakarava North on Wednesday the 24th of June around 0700 started out well with an easy entry through the North pass. After looking at the chop out in the center of the channel we elected to bias well to the East side and enjoyed pretty smooth water, not much current and darned if we didn’t catch a big dog tooth tuna, about a meter long. Biggest fish we’ve nailed in a long time, and good to eat. SV Ari-B passed us by not knowing why we had slowed down so much, but it does take a bit of time and struggle to convince a large fish that dying for our dining cause is the path forward. Pretty bloody too – I got the gaff in the fish while it flailed around then used the filleting knife to slice the gills up so the fish would bleed out. Took about 5 minutes before that was a done deal, then we secured the fish to the rail and headed on in the channel to the village, anchoring off a short dinghy ride to the beach landing near Fakarava Yacht Services.
Anchoring by the village always sucks because visibility is poor and to avoid bommies we have to anchor in enough water that a stuck anchor or wrapped chain would mean dragging out the SCUBA gear. Still, we got the hook down in what looked like a patch of sand, installed pearl farm floats as we deployed chain, and as the forecast was for light and variable wind, went with about 4:1 scope. Worked out OK. Isabel whipped up some breakfast, we gathered up computers and laundry, then we went ashore to say hello to French couple who run the business. Customers get free internet access so we left our phones downloading our favorite podcasts while we wandered up to the various shops to see what was for sale. The supply ship was late but was expected by 1600 so might as well buy what we need and they’ve got, then join the scrum tomorrow for fresh veggies and such once the shelves are stocked.
FYS got our laundry done the same day, and by the end of day Thursday we’d completed all our internet banking, checking investments, answering email, researching fantasy properties in Hawaii, and generally screwing around on the internet. We had successfully provisioned for everything except fresh local lettuce and veggies, but the local farm sets up a stand in town at 0600 Friday mornings so we told Carla on Ari-B we’d pick her up then and go score some produce. SV Avatar had broken a inner forestay attachment while bashing from Tahiti to Hiva Oa, so they’d had to return to Fakarava to attempt repairs, so we paid them a social call in the evening and volunteered to assist in removing the stay with sail still hanked on over at the fuel dock Friday morning. We scored our veggies then assisted with that successful operation, then got ourselves underway to Hirifa at the Southeast corner to tuck in for the upcoming maramu.
We’d tried to sail the route previously and darn near hit a sneaker bommie in bad visibility, so our new rule is only sail if we can stay in the narrow channel. Nothing doing today, so we motored down, charging batteries, making water, washing the aft decks and doing a little laundry we had overlooked. We were part of a “mass exodus” from the village as well as Pakakota Yacht Services, about 9 nm South of the village. Arriving at Hirifa mid-afternoon we joined about 30 other boats, but as we’re both not scared of shallower water these days, we tucked well inside them with about 3 meters under the keel and with little fetch to the palm tree laden motu. Excellent shelter from the upcoming high winds and flat enough water to paddle the SUP. Our pals on SV Agape nearby, SV Avatar now anchored close by, SV Yamaya with little Leo who’s made an excellent recovery from his scalding coffee mishap, all is well with the world.
Isabel launched the dinghy and made us an evening adult beverage and we set off to say hello to numerous boats, greeting old friends and making some new ones. Looks like we’ll be having a good time here.
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