Sun Jul 18 2021
Perhaps I’m having a bad hair day. Isabel and I reckon some folks think we’re nuts and view our lifestyle as living in a piano box under a bridge abutment. Then there’s the folks who look at us and say “you’re so lucky”. They envision us anchored by sandy desert islands with palm trees. Then there’s the other cruisers who know what it’s like to be part of this tribe. You can see it in their smile.
While the mishap we’ve just experienced is quite the exception to the norm, we do often find ourselves out in the middle of nowhere, having to repair our water maker or engine or clogged up toilet. Repairing sails, halyards, inspecting rigging at the top of the mast while dangling in a little canvas chair, it’s all part of the job. Snorkeling around and under the hull scraping sea growth from the hull and props is something we’ve done at least monthly in tropical waters.
This morning at 0100 ship’s time I awakened Isabel for her night watch. We reviewed the latest forecast and decided to stow the twin headsail rig and hoist the main to the second reef point. While we were doing that we used the starboard engine to motor into the wind, necessary to raise the main sail and get everything tidied away. For the first time ever we got an over-temperature alarm and I had to immediately shut down the starboard engine. We could have used the port engine but it decided to have starter issues a few days ago. I’m still trying to figure out if I can fix that out here.
We got the sails sorted and I managed to crash about 0200 and sleep for about 5 hours. When I got up Isabel was a little jumpy - perhaps too many coconut macaroons, or too much coffee, or a bit of anxiety about our situation, and she was keen to reef to the #3 point. I choked down a little coffee and put on my life vest and tether and we got after it. Inspected the bow bandaid and the cross beam attachment structure and all looked good. Contemplated the weather, ate an early lunch, had a short nap, then moved everything off the aft bunk so I could access the starboard engine. Turned out the raw water pump had died, and taken the belt out with it. Since I couldn’t think of anything more fun to do I spent the next 3 hours replacing the pump and belt. Lots of that times spent kind of standing on my head to reach engine accessories. We call that “boat yoga”. Since my time estimates are generally crap for such tasks Isabel became irate that I wasn’t ready to sit down to dinner when I said I’d be done.
To placate her and improve both our lots in life, I ran the engine at a high idle for an hour to verify the belts were tight and no leaks, and while doing so used the alternator output to make a tank of hot water. Shower day! It’s been a while, since we’re in energy conservation mode due to the overcast and fog that’s plagued us for days on end. Clean sailors are happy sailors.
Now I’m reclined on the settee, keeping a sharp eye on the chart plotter and our speed in lumpy confused seas which are constantly slamming against the hull. Hopefully Isabel is able to sleep through this. Condensation is dripping on me as I type away. At least the wind has finally come around and instead of sailing for Mexico we're back on course for Cape Flattery. We’re 874 miles from land in a damaged boat, it’s cold out, the seawater will give you hypothermia in just a few minutes, and it’s dripping from the saloon windows inside the boat.
Anybody want to trade places and enjoy this exotic lifestyle?
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