A quick recap of 2019 -
Isabel and Mark had a pretty darn good year! We spent the first two months of 2019 hauled out in Rocky Point, Mexico completing a major refit before splashing in early March and making a beeline for the Puerto Vallarta area. There we took a slip at Marina La Cruz for a few weeks, making final preparations for the 3000-mile journey across the Pacific to French Polynesia. Our close friend Thad, a highly experienced and competent sailor did the "puddle jump" with us and it was great having a third along to stand watches. After 21 days we arrived at the Marquesan island of Nuku Hiva where we cleared customs and immigration, dispatched Thad back to his wife in the US, reprovisioned with fresh meat, fish, fruit and veggies and did a bit of exploring. In early June we launched for the Tuamotus, a large group of atolls strewn throughout central French Polynesia. We visited several but spent the most time at Fakarava atoll in Hirifa anchorage. There while waiting out a rather icky patch of weather we elected to take kite boarding and free diving lessons. Who knew we could learn to hold our breath for about 3 minutes? Whoever guessed we would both find ourselves zipping around on kite boards hoping the day would never end, then increase the thrill factor by snorkeling in Fakarava's South pass looking down at the "wall of sharks", over 100 white tip, black tip and lemon sharks trolling around below us.
Late July found us sailing into Tahiti where we spent a few days in Mariana Papeete exploring the town before repositioning to Marina Taina to complete some repairs and upgrades to our cockpit rain sheltering canvas. It never rained on us in Mexico, but it rained off and on for about 3 weeks at Hirifa and with the door between the saloon and cockpit closed we felt like shut ins. Isabel began agitating for a bigger boat, and I knew something had to be done quickly!
Once we completed all the work we had some time to kill before our friend Shawnee arrived mid-September, so we sailed to the nearby island of Moorea, anchoring in Cook's Bay. Never mind that Captain Cook actually sailed into adjacent Oponuha Bay, which we also visited. Somewhere along the way Isabel found an opportunity to attend a 19-day yoga instructors certification program on Moorea leaving Mark was on his own. While she worked her way through the program Mark sailed back to Tahiti's Venus Bay, took some additional kite boarding lessons and purchased a set of gear we both can use. For the next year or so while working on our kiting skills, one of us will kite while the other provides chase / crash rescue with the dinghy. Should be a lot of fun.
After collecting Shawnee and her 2 suitcases of boat parts, we spent a few more days at Moorea before a weather window opened up that would allow us to sail East through the Tuamotus. We visited Makemo before conditions changed enough to let us sail back to the Marquesas where we wanted to be during the early cyclone season. Shawnee might have gotten a lot more sailing than she bargained for, but she did get to have her birthday aboard and visit 3 of the islands of the Marquesan group, including Fatu Hiva's Hanavavae Bay, thought by many cruisers to be the most beautiful in the world. From there we sailed to Tahuata to explore a bit before sailing overnight to Nuku Hiva where we entered Daniels Bay, another stunningly beautiful place. We finally made our way to Taiohae Bay where we secured JollyDogs for 7 weeks before departing to the USA. During our 2 weeks we enjoyed visits with wonderful friends in Phoenix, Albuquerque, Denver and San Francisco. From the USA we flew to the UK to do it all over again, catching up with close friends around London, Exeter, Plymouth, the Isle of Wight, Bishops Waltham and Winchester. We made our first foray into what some refer to as the "depths of Cornwall" where Isabel's father, sister and sister-in-law recently relocated to a beautiful estate. We visited and hiked the coastal trail at The Lizard, toured Southwest Cornwall with Paul to see Praa Sands, Pensance, Saint Michael's Mount, Lands End, and more. We found Cornwall to be absolutely beautiful; some parts remote with tiny roads, but altogether all the civilization and conveniences anyone could want, each of us exploring parts of England we had never seen from land.
We returned to French Polynesia in early December, arriving in time to attend a major Marquesan cultural festival held each 4 years. The singing, dancing, food and craft demonstrations were outstanding! So far we have no tattoos to show for our visit, but that could change. Soon.
We hope to sail down to the Gambier islands in Southeastern French Polynesia by early February, then on through the Tuamotus and Societies before departing the country after attending the Heiva festival in early July somewhere in the leeward Society islands. From there the weather patterns will likely dictate whether we can take a Northerly or Southerly route, but we hope to visit Tonga and Fiji before likely heading on to New Zealand before December 2020.
2019 saw the passing of Mark's mom, who had just turned 91. A profound realization that the people who brought him into this world are now dust in the wind. At least funerals bring family together, and it was wonderful to spend time with brother Kirk and sister Lisa. Mark's curiosity about his own genetic heritage and disease risk was satisfied by 23andme with a completely unexpected surprise. Two children! Turns out Mark's participation at a fertility clinic back in the 1980s bore fruit! The 3 of us have connected via email and hope to meet the next trip Mark makes to the USA.
For now, we're lying peacefully at anchor here in Taiohae Bay. Life is good, even though we are waiting for boat part to make a major repair. As they say, cruising is fixing your boat in exotic places. . .
A sample of photos recalling some highlights of the last 12 months follow.
We wish you all a wonderful holiday season with your loved ones, and a happy and prosperous 2020!
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