We didn't get the same wonderful sailing from Fakarava to Amanu that we enjoyed from Tikehau to Fakarava. t started out nice and fast and we left 0530 on Christmas day, but the wind died about 1700 and we fired up an engine and motor sailed the entire rest of the trip, about 40 hours. Nuts. Only upside was the seas were flat and the trip very comfortable. We arrived Amanu and entered the pass around 0730 on the 27th, proceeding to anchor in about 15 meters of crystal clear water with a group of boats not far from the village. Our pals on Ari B invited us over to dinner so after some power hammock rides etc. we had a great evening with them.
This morning we dinghied to the village along with SV Ari B (Alex & Carla) and SV Grace (Dave & Helen) to check in with the mayor's office. They took copies of our boat papers and passports, were very friendly, and turns out free internet is available by the office 1600 - 1900 daily or some such. We then visited the local shop to investigate the grocery situation, and we also learned that 3 supply ships a month come to Amanu. They anchor outside the narrow pass and use the tenders to bring everything under the sun to the town dock. That includes construction machinery and materials, etc. The ships also set up a little shop at the dock and sell beer and whatever else they've got. We wore masks while in the village - the home to about 100 folks. There's no covid here (well, so far).
After returning to our boats we made ready to up anchor and head up to the Northeast corner to shelter from the Easterlies. We were going to follow Ari B up but as they got underway we were unable to get our anchor up. I had snorkeled over it and determined the strategy for clearing the chain off the bommies and that worked fine, but as Isabel was maneuvering the anchor managed to wedge itself rather firmly under a bommie, and no amount of maneuvering or chain play was going to get it loose. At 15 meters it was too deep for either Dave or me to free dive, so out came my SCUBA gear and with Isabel at the helm and Dave floating over me to give her hand signals once I freed the anchor, pretty soon it was away from the bommie and heading for the surface.
We got ourselves squared away and finally headed up the atoll for the Northeast corner, using Ari B's AIS target position to drop waypoints about every mile. They noted that all the bommies were very easy to see except one, and they provided a very accurate waypoint for it. We successfully navigated our way up the lagoon and finally arrived to anchor about 1000 feet from Ari B (skinny dipping distance) in about 3.5 meters of water over a smooth sandy bottom with great holding. About the time we got everything sorted the radio crackled with Alex and Carla from Ari B announcing they were snorkeling with a humpback whale. We could see them in the distance and quickly launched the dinghy with our own snorkel gear and buzzed up to their location. It was an amazing sight watching the whale surface to breath and soon Carla and I were both in the water swimming alongside the whale, a juvenile about 15 - 17 meters long. It took no notice of us, and it was remarkable to note that perhaps 200 ramoras were attached to it, hitching a ride and perhaps waiting for their next meal.
Upon returning from that bit of excitement and feeling pretty stoked about being in such a beautiful location with excellent weather and flat calm water, we had a beer and a nap. Never slackers, I helped Isabel finish up a bucket of laundry - bed sheets, then we hung them up to dry. Next it was time for me to refuel the boat so out came the diesel jugs and soon both main tanks were topped and all the jugs were empty. With luck that'll be enough fuel to get us back to Tahiti, as our duty free fuel certificate will expire soon.
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