One week in Marina Papeete was long enough to wind up our affairs there. Jean Claude got JollyDogs all shined up and we got everything done including re-certifying my SCUBA tank. A week’s stay cost us about $140, a heck of a deal but the low season rates are still in effect because the marina facilities still aren’t open. We moored in front of the complex of restaurants, bars and new marina office (with WIFI lounge, bathroom/shower and laundry facilities) on position F-9, an easy in/easy out spot and the farthest from the streets. Much quieter but won’t be once the new bars open. Nobody can tell if the opening delays are due to coronavirus, political shenanigans or just incompetence, but it’s going to be impressive if they ever get it all going. Whatever. On Friday October 16th we decamped back to the airport anchorage to catch up with a few more friends and get another visit in to Michelle’s chandlery at Marina Taina. Somehow Isabel needed another provisioning excursion to the giant Carrefour, and I managed to score some swim trunks on sale. Woohoo!
On Sunday the 18th we had a lovely sail from Papeete over to Mo’orea, arriving and anchoring with about 2 meters of water under the keel near what we refer to as Opunohu Beach Park, on the port side after entering the pass for Opunohu Bay. Crystal clear water, a sandy bottom with some little bommies – just enough to let us hear the anchor chain grinding away as we drifted around with the changing wind and current. Our pals Rachel and Josh on SV Agape joined us for dinner the following evening and caught us up on everything Mo’orea, where they spent several months last year. Josh showed us some new hiking and biking trails created in part to support local triathalons. Isabel and I hiked to the Belvedere, which is a French word for viewpoint, huffing and puffing up the switchback laden road, then hiking back on a lovely trail through tropical forests and finally pineapple fields. Our buddies on SV Ari-B just arrived over in Cook’s Bay, so now we’re working to schedule a whale watching/snorkeling expedition for Monday. We’re just near the end of the season where humpback whale mommas and their young calves are commonly found just outside the reef. Given Isabel’s reaction to her whale baby encounter last year I really want to enjoy the experience, so maybe we’ll get lucky.
I stumbled upon a couple of great reads the past few days, so my Kindle has been earning its keep. “Endurance”, an account of astronaut Scott Kelly’s year on the International Space Station (ISS) may be the most emotionally honest reflection on life that I’ve ever encountered. While being a NASA astronaut does have a glamorous “minor celebrity” aspect, those that travel to space also do a lot of dangerous, hard and at times very dirty work, and they risk long term personal health effects. It was really delightful to note that our buddy Alvin Drew shared two missions with Scott and I was reminded of my discussions with Alvin as he reflected upon his own experiences. I’m pleased that my own tax dollars have paid their salaries and supported such a visionary program.
“Red Notice” by Bill Browder is a factual insider’s account of the extreme level of corruption that exists in Russia up to the very highest levels of government. It’s clear that Vladimir Putin is a serious thug surrounded by a small group of oligarchs who have absolutely looted the country’s citizens. It also delves into the Russian psyche enough to help me know I’m fortunate to have been born in a Western country. The book is an absolute barn burner and I had trouble putting it down. Reflecting upon the content leaves me stunned at the current US President’s admiration of Putin, basically a dictator for life who brazenly steals from his own people and holds much of Europe hostage over energy supplies.
I can’t recommend both of these books highly enough. They’re informative, thoughtful, and mind opening. Don’t we all need some of that?
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