8º 49.386s 140º 03.841w
Mon May 20 2019
One
of the gourmet delights served up at the local beach restaurant is goat stew
with coconut milk. Yesterday (Saturday) Isabel and I dinghied ashore to explore
the local environs with the objective of inquiring about a meal out on the
town. Well, actually, a goat stew and maybe a cold beer at the small restaurant
on the beach. The lady that met us there indicated that they were fresh out of
that particular menu item, but her husband had gone hunting and hoped to shoot
a goat so that they could offer the delicacy by Sunday or Monday. Well how
about that? No grocery store or restaurant supply goat for us – only the real
deal; wild goat! This is bound to be even yummier than the birria de chivo that
we ate so much of in Telaquepaque last summer!
Turns
out that all sorts of animals on this island have gone feral over the years,
including goats, pigs, chickens, dogs and whatnot. The island is covered with
coconut, banana, breadfruit, and mango trees, plus a lot of other fruit we’re
unfamiliar with. Pretty much all folks have to do is go out and pick something
off a tree or keep a small garden as anything will grow here. Want protein? If
nobody feels like shooting something up in the hills, then go fishing well out
to sea as there’s ciguatera in the local reef fish which get eaten by the
larger rock dwellers. Wahoo and yellow fin tuna seem to be safe, and oh so
tasty!
Isabel
tried her hand at an Indian curry last night – sort of like the ones we ate in
Kerala last year, and wahoo was featured. Ian and Manuela from SV Mr. X joined
us, bringing a box of red wine from their Panama stash and a homemade crème
caramel for dessert. An amazing meal, a lovely evening, and today we both
commented at how well we feel we know them after only a few hours together.
Cruising folks just seem to open their hearts and share their feelings; it’s
both endearing and refreshing. Richard, Ian thinks he’s met you during his time
as a BBC broadcast engineer, likely on one of the BBC club racing boats.
Today
we hiked across the high ridgeline to the next bay over which is accessible by
road (Anaho bay isn’t). Atiheu bay has a rather vibrant community, an
impressive church, piped in electricity and telephone, cell phone access, a
phone booth (no really), a shop (magasin) and a very appealing looking
restaurant. Naturally because we went to such an effort to get there,
everything was closed. Actually, the Catholic influence is major here and most
all businesses are closed on Sundays, so it’s not just us. . .
Atiheu
bay is also ringed by amazing tall volcanic peaks, altogether stunning scenery.
The view from the saddle at the top of the ridge did a lot of justice to Anaho
bay where we’re anchored, but Atiheu is exceptional. The bay looks okay for
anchoring when the Southern swell is running, but it’s tough to land a dinghy
on the beach due to the surf, so apparently cruisers don’t frequent the area.
There is a concrete quay at the Eastern end of the bay, about a kilometer walk
from town.
As
we were walking out of town back towards the trail head, there was a group of
local folks collecting mangos from a giant tree. We had passed a single fellow
on the way in, and I told Isabel that with his rope and bucket he must be
preparing to climb up there and get the high, sun ripened fruit. Well that he
did, and when we greeted him in French he insisted that we try one immediately
and please take a couple with us. Isabel ripped the skin off a large ripe one,
a beautiful golden yellow color, and we ate the most delicious mango in memory.
If you’ve ever eaten a really good mango, it’s pretty much a foregone
conclusion that you’ll need a bath and a change of clothes when done. We did,
but with sticky hands and faces we bid the lovely people adieu and hiked back
over the hill to our own beautiful bay.
Another
bay, another amazing day, just one of those “pinch me I must be dreaming” kind
of moments in life.
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