JollyDogs First Circumnavigation

8º 55.000s 140º 06.067w

Sat May 25 2019

Daniel’s Bay was stunningly beautiful, the best scenery yet, and we’ve been warned it could get even better. I’m not sure how we’re going to cope with that. . .

The water in Daniel’s Bay on the South side of Nuku Hiva and only about 5 miles West of Taiohae Bay is much flatter than other bays on the South side thanks to the way the terrain lays. Motoring in is kind of dangerous, as the scenery is so stunning it’s difficult to concentrate on the helm. Nevertheless we managed to arrive and anchor, then commenced to having fun. The weather seemed to have dried up, so we decided to hike to the waterfall, the “must do” item on the Daniel’s Bay list. Turned out a bunch of other folks from surrounding boats had the same idea, and we ended up enjoying the day with 3 English couples, each from separate boats. Those English folks do get around. Along the way we passed an organic farm and restaurant where we booked a roast pig lunch and requested a bunch of fruit, coconuts etc. to be ready to collect as we returned.

The walk was lovely, the falls pretty much dry this time of year, but the surrounding moss and foliage covered canyons rose so high we were still overwhelmed by the views. As the walk was about 3 ½ hours round trip, we had plenty of time to chat each other up and get some of those “life story” moments. Isabel is a member of the Royal Cruising Club, and crew from the other boats were members of the Royal Yacht Squadron and some other club I can’t recall. Burgees flying at the mast tops and all that. Everyone had lived aboard their boats for some years and were working on circumnavigations and such.

Lunch was great and the pig, a small wild one was a bit tough but darn tasty. Fire roasted breadfruit was another unique taste sensation for me. The family that ran the farm and prepared the meal were lovely people, speaking Marquesan, French and decent English. We hiked until we were hungry, then ate until we were tired, then we still had to collect our fruit and produce, get the dinghies launched into the surf, and get everything home to our respective boats. Now JollyDogs is sporting a small hammock strung across the stern, stuffed full of pamplemouse, and a big stalk of green bananas hanging under the rear arch. We’re lookin’ tropical good!

Naturally all the bananas will ripen at once, but we’ll manage, and apparently they do freeze well once ripe – just peel and wrap first. Isabel has been muttering about banana pancakes, banana bread, banana ice cream, and looks a bit panicked at the number of those things in the bunch, but hopefully we’ll find someone to give a few to.

Yesterday afternoon after stowing our goodies Isabel demanded my immediate attention on deck, only to show me a pair of Reef Manta Rays swimming slowly through the small bay and lingering for some time just by JollyDogs. They were beautiful! About 3 meters wing span, though apparently they can get almost double that size. We watched breathlessly for several minutes until they moved away, and once again thanked our luck stars that we’re out here doing this instead of watching the Animal Channel on TV.

We departed Daniel’s Bay around mid-day today, Friday, and are now back where we began our adventure at Nuku Hiva, Taiohae Bay. Circumnavigation complete. We’ve been ashore to collect various groceries, and will launch an early morning expedition to purchase fresh tuna (still quivering) and fresh farm vegetables and greens. We’ll bring that back to the boat, then return for breakfast with complimentary high(er) speed internet, then around 1030 we’ll hopefully collect the 4 dozen eggs that Isabel reserved today. Eggs go fast in the local shops, but they will take your name and promise to hold some for you.

We stumbled upon Ian and Manuela from Mr. X after going ashore this afternoon, so we’ll all gather on their boat for dinner tomorrow night, then it looks like the island of Ua Pua, about 25 miles South of us will be our Sunday destination. A weather window that will carry us down into the Tuamotus appears to be shaping up nicely, so Monday early we’re expecting to blast off for the 500 mile trip. That said, it’s a forecast and is bound to change either for better or worse.

In any case, we’ll be fueled up, fully provisioned, and ready to rock. Time for some new scenery!